New Boulders


April 2021.

Much has happened in the last few months, several new problems on the HP Bloc at Hope Mansell have been opened, some of these are definitely up there for the title of Best Line for the Grade in the FoD! Huntsham has lost it's Crown, being replaced by at least two new areas. A new guidebook for these areas is nearing completion - Mid May is the print date.
The first image is Le Mur Rouge. 6c/+, a rather brutal compression problem. Fiat 6c/+ is the small block problem and a real test of heel smears. On the HP Bloc, Delicieux 7a/+ joins the likes of Out of Time Man 7b and Uncertain Smile 6c+/7a, as 7a/b 3 Star boulders. The arete known as Comings and Goings, here climbed by Paddy Walker - who got the first repeat of the SS to Out of Time man - is another quality line that needs some thinking about for success.
The Forest of Dean should be on your hit list if it isn't already, the quality of this stuff is quite incredible.
Thanks to www.roots-climbing.com for all the info, the searching and the developing of these new lines. 


Just before and during the Covid Lockdown, before the wet season started, several new boulders were found and developed. Oliver Keynes, a name synonymous with FA's, and Highballs, and local strong man, Jimmy Smith, both shared with us locations that were untouched, this lead of course to extensive searching to find the full amount of rock in these sectors, which meant another "find".
The new bouldering was impressive and the full details of the 25+ problems will be released soon.

Photo above, the Impressive 3 Rocks Sector.
Laura Skilton doing the FFA of Big Little World. 6b/+
Below, also the 3 Rocks Sector, David Cross and Keith Barnes.

 

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I lost count of the number of lines we put on this cluster of small boulders, but they are all top quality and this is probably one of the best bouldering areas in the Forest of Dean for low to medium Grade 6 problems.

Below is Control Freak, also at the 3 Rocks Sector, a few stiff compression moves to give a 3 Star 6c and Covidiots, slightly eliminate but utterly classic and worthy of many stars for the grade of 6a/+.

Another excellent find at 3 Rocks was the compact boulder, a bit of a walk to find but a great start to the day and Graveyards, the semi hidden Limestone Quarry.

As mentioned Oliver called and said he had a project block, did I want to take a look?
Well, Yes Please!
After a few sessions and what has proved to be a very painful wrist injury, I put up one of the best boulders in the Forest of Dean. No lie! This thing has everything you want in a block, hard moves, poor holds, steepish climbing and an ace top out.
Hidden just from view from the narrow lane near Hope Mansel, the Super Block has several lines from Oliver up to 6c and my addition, The Out of Time Man, 7a+ for low start and 7b/+ for the sitter.

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More details and pdf Topo soon....